Namche to Gokyo (UP)

Day 4 Namche (3446m) to Phortse Tenga (3675m)

We left with our new yaks for higher altitudes on a trail shared by Gokyo and Everest destinations with great views everywhere. Ama Dablan (6856m) stands in front of us while lunching at Kyangjumg (3600m), then the trail splits and we head into another valley destined for Gokyo.  This is summer yak-grazing country!  Up to Mong at 3973m and down to our camp at Phortse Teng at 3675m, total 9.8KM. Rice with vegetables, fries for supper. Our group had a session where each member tells the group: Why Nepal? And what our expectations where?

Day 5 Phortse Tenga (3675m) to Dole (4040m)

We had a short 2.5 hr climb to Dole at 4040m, 3.6KM only. Our afternoon was free and a group of us hiked into a valley. A shrub like plant all over the place can be used to make curry. Mmhh, Tibetan dumplings, cauliflower for dinner. It snowed lightly before midnight but was sunny next morning and all traces of snow were gone.

Day 6 Dole (4040m) to Machhermo (4410m)

We trekked to Luza (4370m) for tea. Here is a memoriam to a young Italian who died of AMS. Then off to Machermo (4410m) for a two day stay. 6.2KM total today. Here it’s sunny from 730 until just after lunch when the clouds come in and it gets windy and cold, it went down to –6C. Lots of yaks grazing around and an abundance of potato fields. During the night a group of 25 yaks almost over ran our camp. Ryan and I each had a shower: it’s a 5-gallon bucket with a cup, cost $200 rupees ($4) each. Ryan is into the ‘Nepal’ thing and along with Pam they are socializing with the staff, playing cards with them and starting to pick up a lot of the language.  Meeting lots of other trekkers, on their own or in pairs with a guide. There is also less traffic here as more are doing the Everest Base camp.

Wake, one of our trekkers has a chest infection and is taking penicillin. Our leader Norine, is well trained in wilderness first aid. Sepanta interacts with the local children and holds some relay races.

Next morning I was in a rush to get up early and immediately got a headache. This seems to happen whenever there is stress (or trying to get out of my sleeping bag, put shoes on to go outside to the biffy or some physical exertion). But it goes quickly, thank god! We hike up to a nearby ridge to catch the sunrise, its windy and cold. We see Cho Oyu (8153), Cholotse (6440), Tawoche (6542), Kang Taiga (6685), Thamserku (6808), Khumbila (5761),  and Kyajo Ri (6168) behind Manchermo, which has the look of the Canadian Rockies, but higher of course. Looking down into the valley at Na is another ETC group that is four days ahead of us, and this group has raised over $100,000 for Alzheimer research.

Day 8 Marchhermo (4410m) to Gokyo (4791m, 15718’)

We head for Gokyo at 4791m (15718’), a 9.1KM climb but don’t arrive until 130. We trek on the west moraine side of the Ngozumpo Glacier, which is over 20km long and originates at Cho Oyu (8153m) and other peaks along the Tibetan border. The lower part is all covered in rocks with very little ice showing and late in the afternoon, with the sun shining on it, it moans and creeks. We also pass three lakes that are deep turquoise. Ryan has a headache, takes 2 aspirins, sleeps 11 hours and is ready to go next day.  We are all exhausted, tired, and expecting a cold night so some of our group decide to stay inside a lodge (300NP per person), but I am tough and stay in the tent. After it gets dark we watch some lights from trekkers coming down from Gokyo Ri who were fortunate to see the sunset, apparently an unusual occurrence. Spaghetti with potato pancakes, apple pie sure tasted good but most of us don’t have the appetite! Garth cannot sleep and has developed a nasty head cold, and his heart is racing a bit.